Amman’s suqs and Egyptian Mouri

After year and a half I cannot help feeling that Amman has become my city and will stay deeply engraved in my heart forever. Each day I am amazed by new secrets learnt by coincidence. Once a boring town, full of clubs(not even good ones) where people go to show off has turned into amazing story of its dwellers. But I guess each place has a lot to offer if you only know how to listen, and have a pinch of patience.
Fish in the photo came from the Red Sea. I found it in one of the bazaars suq in downtown. Very local area, full of screaming vendors, smiling to you without any reason.Ad hoc. Actually, there is a reason – you’re a foreign girl shopping at night and speaking their language. I didn’t even notice when I started feeling different about these people, when they became so close and so familiar. Today I have my own place where I can get fish, where I know all the sellers, where they chat with me and flirt in a very Egyptian way. I like them even when they go: Is there a sun that shines at night? Sure you just want to ignore this question for you exactly know where its gonna take you. But they don’t let go so easily. Wallahi, you’re the sun! Grotesque romance in a fish store. And then you get this fish wrapped in a black, plastic bag. You take it from fish smelling hands of a man who left his country to search for a better future, and just a second ago he flirted with you while gutting the poor creature. They already know your name, recommend Egyptian recipes and wait when you come next time.  You know every time you return to this place, they will be always waiting with a new fish and grim on their face. Even if you leave one day.

Egyptian Mouri in soy sauce
For 4 servings:
1 kg mouri or any fish of delicate, white flesh
3 carrots
1 red or yellow pepper
7 table spoons of soy sauce
6 slices of lemon
unpeeled cloves of garlic
chilli flakes
3/4 cup of vegetable or chicken stock
black pepper
coconut oil for Asian vibe, or olive oil for those more conservative when it comes to taste

1. Given that your fish is already clean and sliced open, stuff it with lemon slices, then sprinkle with 2 spoons of soy sauce (each piece) and chilli flakes from the inside.
2. Place fish in casserole dish, add cut carrots and sliced bell pepper.
3. Pour stock, sprinkle everything with soy sauce – don’t be greedy! Finish with black pepper, chilli flakes, unpeeled cloves of garlic and your choice of oil. I love it with coconut oil plus its healthier.
4. Put in oven preheat to 180 C and bake for 30 minutes using only lower heat. Don’t cover but from time to time pour stock over fish.
5. Sprinkle the top with olive oil or coconut oil and turn on upper heat to get crispy, golden skin.
Then just eat  🙂



Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s